Hi again!
We put the kayak in at Scapoose Bay Marine Park. The staff at the Kayak Center were super helpful with suggestions for paddle trips and they had a good map for sale (one used by fishermen that included tips on where to catch fish). We started out on a slack tide moving to a flood tide. We hadn't figured on the stiff wind that we ran into as we left the bay and moved into the Multnomah Channel. We took a break on a little beach to renew our strength. Lots of osprey along the way. They take advantage of dead trees, pilings, abandoned cranes and towers that offer safe nest sites and river view-points. It seemed they'd bought up all the waterfront we passed. Good fishing, I bet. I noticed that they used whatever was handy to build their aeries: rushes, branches, even old plastic bags. We got used to their high pitched complaining cry: cri-cri-cri-cri-cri!
Finally the town of St Helen's came into view. Opposite the town there is an island built from dredging the river and channel over the years. It's name is as you might suspect, Sand Island. Over time a forest of cotton-woods has grown up. St. Helens has built a park there and there are several campsites for travelers. After pulling the kayak up on the beach, I ventured a short ways up the beach until I encountered a wicked burr which I have named Harpoon Hooks. It was the fiercest name I could come up with for this weed that won't let go without tearing holes in your skin. They seem to have taken a foothold with all the other plant colonists on the west side of the island.
The paddle from St Helens is very short and it seems that homeless camp here, too. It is a well built camp ground with a dock, tables, metal fire-pits, and vault toilets. No water, but that's something you have to expect when you visit islands and we always carry several gallons when we're paddling. Tomorrow our plan is to paddle to St Helens for our morning coffee. Good Night All!
Thursday, October 27, 2016
Sunday, October 16, 2016
Kayaking on the Columbia with Gil and Jane 8/10/16
Hi There!
Shortly after returning home from my Oregon adventure, I was back on the road, this time driving south on I-5 with a 20 ft kayak on the roof. Jane had been helping a friend move from La Grande OR to Idaho Falls ID, and thanks to a generous new friend, who gave her a bonus certificate, was flying to meet me in Portland. Just as I came rolling into the Arrivals Pick-up, there was Jane. I must say, I was really glad to see her smiling face.
Soon we were on the road to Sauvie Island , the biggest island in the Columbia, several miles north of Portland on Hwy 30. This would be our first time kayaking on the Columbia. Sauvie Island is home to the massive Ridgefield wildlife reserve and at the same time it is a major farming area, supplying vegetables and fruits to metropolitan Portland. That first day we surveyed the island, first checking out the Multnomah channel, which runs along it's east side, and noting launch sites and potential campsites/picnic spots we could make use of. Two good launch sites included the Hadley Dock at the end of Ferry Rd. not far from the Sauvie Island Bridge and the Gilbert River boat launch at the far north end of Sauvie. Here I'd like to mention two good resources that I used: the website of the Lower Columbia Estuary Partnership and the book " the Lewis and Clark Columbia River Water Trail " by Hay. Sauvie Island is very popular with cyclists, but the roads are narrow with no paved shoulders and the speed limits are too high, 45 mph plus. If you do cycle pick low traffic and daylight hours.
We were both a little tired from all our rushing around, so we hunted for a nearby campsite, which we found a little north and west just off Hwy 30 near Scapoose ( Indian for 'gravel'). It was a little county park "Scapoose Co. RV park". It cost $20/night to tent and the host let us put our tent wherever we wanted. Free hot water showers, too. It was next to the co. airport, and unfortunately, a large development was going in down the road with gravel trucks starting up early in the AM. Well... time to get some rest. See you in the morning.
Shortly after returning home from my Oregon adventure, I was back on the road, this time driving south on I-5 with a 20 ft kayak on the roof. Jane had been helping a friend move from La Grande OR to Idaho Falls ID, and thanks to a generous new friend, who gave her a bonus certificate, was flying to meet me in Portland. Just as I came rolling into the Arrivals Pick-up, there was Jane. I must say, I was really glad to see her smiling face.
Soon we were on the road to Sauvie Island , the biggest island in the Columbia, several miles north of Portland on Hwy 30. This would be our first time kayaking on the Columbia. Sauvie Island is home to the massive Ridgefield wildlife reserve and at the same time it is a major farming area, supplying vegetables and fruits to metropolitan Portland. That first day we surveyed the island, first checking out the Multnomah channel, which runs along it's east side, and noting launch sites and potential campsites/picnic spots we could make use of. Two good launch sites included the Hadley Dock at the end of Ferry Rd. not far from the Sauvie Island Bridge and the Gilbert River boat launch at the far north end of Sauvie. Here I'd like to mention two good resources that I used: the website of the Lower Columbia Estuary Partnership and the book " the Lewis and Clark Columbia River Water Trail " by Hay. Sauvie Island is very popular with cyclists, but the roads are narrow with no paved shoulders and the speed limits are too high, 45 mph plus. If you do cycle pick low traffic and daylight hours.
We were both a little tired from all our rushing around, so we hunted for a nearby campsite, which we found a little north and west just off Hwy 30 near Scapoose ( Indian for 'gravel'). It was a little county park "Scapoose Co. RV park". It cost $20/night to tent and the host let us put our tent wherever we wanted. Free hot water showers, too. It was next to the co. airport, and unfortunately, a large development was going in down the road with gravel trucks starting up early in the AM. Well... time to get some rest. See you in the morning.
Wednesday, October 5, 2016
Gil's Oregon Trail- Albany, OR cont.
I'm back...
Visited the Santiam-Albany Canal. It's described as a 19th century engineering marvel, first constructed in the 1860's, improved and lengthened over time. It's now 18 miles long. At first it was used more for transportation, but now is used more for power and water.In 2005 a fish ladder was added.
I rode all around Albany: up and down Bryant Road ( part of the northbound Willamett Valley Trail) along the Calapooia River, where restoration efforts are underway. They grow hazelnuts here. The ground is scraped clean of weeds and packed flat. Each tree is surrounded by plastic barriers. I'd like to grow these in Discovery Bay, since the climate is about the same and wild hazelnut grows all around. I need to study up on orchard farming.
I camped out along the river, watched bats flying overhead in the fading evening light. In the morning a woman at the info center helped me out with maps, both historical and current, and I went off on an exploration of local bike routes. At first I checked out the waterfront using the Monteith and Dave Clark trails. I rode down to a Bowman Park, north of the DC trail, then cruised Water,1st, and 2nd Streets. I picked up a thorn, probably while trundling my bike through the brush. No matter, it was an easy fix. I Got breakfast at Pop's Branding Iron, as you'd expect it had a distinctly western flavor and the food was good.
I explored some dirt trail from Bowman Park which ran a couple of miles or more along the Willamet and neighboring oxbow lakes and sloughs. This was quite do-able on my road bike. Then I bumped into a TV reporter, Amber of KVI? Albany. She was doing a story about some caves dug out into the riverbank by homeless people, which the city had decided to demolish for safety reasons. I could sympathize with the difficult circumstances of the homeless, but recognized how caves could be a dangerous attraction to kids. She interviewed me since I'd been there and had an opinion.
I finished out the day riding exploring the Spring? trail and worked my way back to the RR station. I was lamenting the loss of my Camel-back water bottle when suddenly there it was, right beside the pot-hole that had jostled it out of my bag!
I had a short wait til the north-bound train for Seattle arrived. The trip home was one last long scenic movie highlighting the Willamett Valley and the country life. It was a good trip. I covered 466 miles in 10 days, or about 47 miles a day.
Stay tuned. I will be writing about Jane and me paddling the Columbia from 8/16 to 8/22.
Visited the Santiam-Albany Canal. It's described as a 19th century engineering marvel, first constructed in the 1860's, improved and lengthened over time. It's now 18 miles long. At first it was used more for transportation, but now is used more for power and water.In 2005 a fish ladder was added.
I rode all around Albany: up and down Bryant Road ( part of the northbound Willamett Valley Trail) along the Calapooia River, where restoration efforts are underway. They grow hazelnuts here. The ground is scraped clean of weeds and packed flat. Each tree is surrounded by plastic barriers. I'd like to grow these in Discovery Bay, since the climate is about the same and wild hazelnut grows all around. I need to study up on orchard farming.
I camped out along the river, watched bats flying overhead in the fading evening light. In the morning a woman at the info center helped me out with maps, both historical and current, and I went off on an exploration of local bike routes. At first I checked out the waterfront using the Monteith and Dave Clark trails. I rode down to a Bowman Park, north of the DC trail, then cruised Water,1st, and 2nd Streets. I picked up a thorn, probably while trundling my bike through the brush. No matter, it was an easy fix. I Got breakfast at Pop's Branding Iron, as you'd expect it had a distinctly western flavor and the food was good.
I explored some dirt trail from Bowman Park which ran a couple of miles or more along the Willamet and neighboring oxbow lakes and sloughs. This was quite do-able on my road bike. Then I bumped into a TV reporter, Amber of KVI? Albany. She was doing a story about some caves dug out into the riverbank by homeless people, which the city had decided to demolish for safety reasons. I could sympathize with the difficult circumstances of the homeless, but recognized how caves could be a dangerous attraction to kids. She interviewed me since I'd been there and had an opinion.
I finished out the day riding exploring the Spring? trail and worked my way back to the RR station. I was lamenting the loss of my Camel-back water bottle when suddenly there it was, right beside the pot-hole that had jostled it out of my bag!
I had a short wait til the north-bound train for Seattle arrived. The trip home was one last long scenic movie highlighting the Willamett Valley and the country life. It was a good trip. I covered 466 miles in 10 days, or about 47 miles a day.
Stay tuned. I will be writing about Jane and me paddling the Columbia from 8/16 to 8/22.
Tuesday, October 4, 2016
Gil's Oregon Trail-Sunday in Corvallis to Albany
Hello Again!
Thought I'd go to church, today. I'm not sure where my friends go, so I picked a Presbyterian Church like my home church back in Seattle.The church was planted by a Presbyterian missionary named John Hannah back in the mid 1800's The text of the sermon was Jesus' visit to John the Baptist. John saw right off who Jesus was. "It's me who needs to be baptized by you!" Jesus insists. He is the reality the Hope stood for. The Messiah has come as a human being. I understood something... that God is enlivening his Word. Not just then but right now! Jesus inhabits his Word. As real as flesh and blood. At that time God gave His stamp by His Spirit: there was the sign of God's Peace, the Dove and there was the voice coming from the Fire ( like the Burning Bush in Moses story) a sign of God's Eternal Presence. Good thoughts to carry with me as I wander in the "wilderness".
I had planned to visit the fair, but sadly I was too late, things had closed down. I've been fortunate, days have been in the 80's, though nights are cold. I think a blanket might be better to carry than my sleeping bag, except for the weight. Maybe a poly-fill 'throw' would work. Vistas very beautiful in the AM, with the sun coming up in the east and everything golden, even the trees are into the golden thing with Fall peering over the mountain ridges. Clouds are moving in and the chance of rain is 20%. I pass the Jackson Frazier wetland, a great place for bird watching. Plants include Bradshaw's Lomatium and Checker Mallow. Queen Anne's Lace is everywhere in the Willamet Valley.
I leave Corvallis by the north and east pedaling into Albany. Sunday's not the best time to arrive in a new town. I couldn't find any shops open, especially bike shops. I missed not having a map. After getting a little frazzled, I decided to slow down. A blackberry sundae at the Mr Freeze helped immensely, I recommend it. I started cruising up and down the streets of old Albany looking at old, old houses, kind of like Port Townsend, but more of them. I roamed Bryant Park which spreads across both sides of the Willamett. I sat on a picnic bench and listened to a Mexican Oompah band, playing for a private barbeque. Then there were the ducks, almost doing head-stands with their rear-ends in the air, while they dabbled for vegetation. More later...
Sunday, September 18, 2016
Gil's Oregon Trail- Riding around Corvallis
Hi all! Today my plan is to ride around Corvallis, home to Oregon St. University and one of the most bike friendly towns in the US. I learned that this area, part of the Mary's Creek watershed, was long ago home to the Kalapuyans. They burned forest to make places for Camas Lily, deer, and elk, which they lived on. Years later around the early 1800's fur-trappers working for the Hudson's Bay Company arruved. At first the whites only wanted to trade for beaver skins, but then they decided they wanted their land. In 1834 came the Indian Trade and Intercourse Act. Then in 1850 The Willamett Valley Treaty. In 1851 the Kalapuya were asked to leave. "Never! Never! We do not wish to leave our Country!" said Daboe, a Luckiamutes head-man. " We wish to remain, our fathers, our families, and our friends are buried here." said Scho-la-que of the Mary's River clan. Despite their protests, they were moved to Grand Ronde, a small area far to the north, where many of the coastal people were moved.
The US took over little by little. Spain ceded control in 1819. Russia gave over it's claims in 1824. For awhile Britain or the Hudson's Bay Company dominated until the time of President Polk ( 54' 40" or Fight!). Britain settled the issue in 1844, leaving Oregon to us, while establishing the present US-Canadian border. Corvallis was a transportation hub. Settlers began moving in by the "Trappers Trail", the "California Trail", the "Applegate Trail" ( which came out of the Great Basin via the Humboldt Sink, crossing the Klamath , Rogue, Umpqua and Long Tom rivers). in 1840 Methodist missionaries, Hines and White arrived. A college was established in in 1852, which became OSU in1886. I'll be studying my history books to fill in the gaps, which are many.
Today, I enjoyed hanging out at the Corvallis Farmer's Market which was set up in a the park that lies along the Willamett River. I bought figs from a local farm stand, enjoyed home-made Polish sausage, and listen to blues music. I picked up a Corvallis Bike Map at the library and then tried out all the routes I could in a day, including the Willamett, Philomath, Bald Hill, and Brooklane trails. I put 33 miles on my odometer today. Tonight I pedaled up to Reservoir Hill and found a place to camp. See you in the morning!
The US took over little by little. Spain ceded control in 1819. Russia gave over it's claims in 1824. For awhile Britain or the Hudson's Bay Company dominated until the time of President Polk ( 54' 40" or Fight!). Britain settled the issue in 1844, leaving Oregon to us, while establishing the present US-Canadian border. Corvallis was a transportation hub. Settlers began moving in by the "Trappers Trail", the "California Trail", the "Applegate Trail" ( which came out of the Great Basin via the Humboldt Sink, crossing the Klamath , Rogue, Umpqua and Long Tom rivers). in 1840 Methodist missionaries, Hines and White arrived. A college was established in in 1852, which became OSU in1886. I'll be studying my history books to fill in the gaps, which are many.
Today, I enjoyed hanging out at the Corvallis Farmer's Market which was set up in a the park that lies along the Willamett River. I bought figs from a local farm stand, enjoyed home-made Polish sausage, and listen to blues music. I picked up a Corvallis Bike Map at the library and then tried out all the routes I could in a day, including the Willamett, Philomath, Bald Hill, and Brooklane trails. I put 33 miles on my odometer today. Tonight I pedaled up to Reservoir Hill and found a place to camp. See you in the morning!
Friday, September 16, 2016
Gil's Oregon Trail (Eugene to Corvallis via the Willamett Valley Trail)
Hi again! Perused some issues of Adventure Cycling in the laundry room: Riding Taiwan, Biking Japan, Using Amtrak and biking Vermont, Biking Morrocco, cycling in Northern Italy....something to think about. I learned about the US Bike Route System (USBRS), EuroVelo in Europe, La Route Verte in Quebec, and the Mississippi River Trail Way (both sides!).
The next morning I got started early, pedaling down Coburg Road. Just as I entered town I found the Coburg Bakery and Pizza Co. After enjoying a coffee and a monster cinnamon bun, I donned my helmet and saddled up only to find my tire was flat. Oh well, it happens... then I noticed a serious crack in my rear rim. Going back to the bakery, I inquired about nearby bike shops. "In Eugene." I was told. I was at least 10 miles out of town. Then an angel appeared. Debra was her name. "Come, put your bike in my car and I'll take you there." She drops me off and leaves me outside Willie's bike shop. Then she's gone, only the echo of her wings fluttering in my ears.
As I waited for the shop to open, I talked with Jonah, also waiting at the door. He's a new bike rider, thanks his discovery of an old Schwinn at a garage sale. He's pretty excited to be able to ride to work after some tedious miles walking and waiting for buses. I cheer him on, giving him a few tips that helped me keep going after I started. Like "carry a patch kit and a pump... and don't worry about rain, just get a good raincoat..."
Willy doesn't have the right size rim, so, after fixing the flat I pedal a little ways to Bicycle Way of Life. No, It's not a church. Michael the owner and master mechanic fixes me up, not just the rim but the brakes and derailers. God is watching over me! Ready to restart from downtown Eugene I coffee up at Dutch Brothers and get a little rap music for my sound track.
The way back to Coburg is very familiar by now, so it goes fast. Stopping in at the bakery, I ask the server I met earlier if he knows Debra. He does. So I leave the price of a latte with him, " Tell her it's from the biker you helped." I leave town taking the North Coburg Road it's numbing-ly straight... and goes for miles. Finally I turn onto Gap Road ... and then it's climb, climb, climb to a pass ( must be the Gap) ...then racing down-hill, "twisting and shouting". I come into Brownsville, a historic little town with a feisty streak of independence. Lots of pioneer age buildings ... still standing! Then 7 mile Road, W. Linn Road, Robert's Road... Watch out for soft shoulders on these roads...and be ready for wind, cause there's not much out there between you and it. Then Boston Mill Rd. to Shedd, another historic farm town. I was saddened to see an old Methodist church, where services had been held continuously since 1853, with auction sign nailed to the timbers. I believe in the Resurrection.
I turned on Fayetteville Rd. So many "Fayettevilles" in the US. My mom lived in Fayetteville Arkansas. Down the road I saw black walnut trees, tall and straight, another thing that reminded me of my mom. I crossed over Muddy Creek and saw a score of salmon of spawning size. Then Peoria Rd, and White Oak, and then suddenly Highway 34. I stood there puzzled for a few minutes till I realized that there was a separate bike lane across the Highway. The Willamett Valley Trail is mostly country road with very few signs ( usually at a road change and not very big.) Anyway, you take the bike way west until you come to a right curving, arching overpass, which you follow over the river. You'll see a sign on the downhill that assures you that you're in a bike lane. There before you is Corvallis, "Heart of the Valley" in Latin.
I'd hoped to get to the Library and email my friends Phil and Audra, but alas I got to town at 730pm and the library closes at 6. I did bump into Brian, who I could see by his outfit that he was a serious biker. He pointed me to Squirrel's, a pub known for it's good food. I ordered the Squirrel Burger, which has "everything", including a fried egg! I peddled off to the West side of town to where I'd camped before, near the fairgrounds. Though a good ways off, I could hear the Gospel and Country music, I think everyone was singing. Later it was the little critters that live among the Garry Oak that kept me awake. I think I plunked down on one of their trails... probably the one between the bathroom and the refridgerator. And now a little "shut-eye". Goodnight!
The next morning I got started early, pedaling down Coburg Road. Just as I entered town I found the Coburg Bakery and Pizza Co. After enjoying a coffee and a monster cinnamon bun, I donned my helmet and saddled up only to find my tire was flat. Oh well, it happens... then I noticed a serious crack in my rear rim. Going back to the bakery, I inquired about nearby bike shops. "In Eugene." I was told. I was at least 10 miles out of town. Then an angel appeared. Debra was her name. "Come, put your bike in my car and I'll take you there." She drops me off and leaves me outside Willie's bike shop. Then she's gone, only the echo of her wings fluttering in my ears.
As I waited for the shop to open, I talked with Jonah, also waiting at the door. He's a new bike rider, thanks his discovery of an old Schwinn at a garage sale. He's pretty excited to be able to ride to work after some tedious miles walking and waiting for buses. I cheer him on, giving him a few tips that helped me keep going after I started. Like "carry a patch kit and a pump... and don't worry about rain, just get a good raincoat..."
Willy doesn't have the right size rim, so, after fixing the flat I pedal a little ways to Bicycle Way of Life. No, It's not a church. Michael the owner and master mechanic fixes me up, not just the rim but the brakes and derailers. God is watching over me! Ready to restart from downtown Eugene I coffee up at Dutch Brothers and get a little rap music for my sound track.
The way back to Coburg is very familiar by now, so it goes fast. Stopping in at the bakery, I ask the server I met earlier if he knows Debra. He does. So I leave the price of a latte with him, " Tell her it's from the biker you helped." I leave town taking the North Coburg Road it's numbing-ly straight... and goes for miles. Finally I turn onto Gap Road ... and then it's climb, climb, climb to a pass ( must be the Gap) ...then racing down-hill, "twisting and shouting". I come into Brownsville, a historic little town with a feisty streak of independence. Lots of pioneer age buildings ... still standing! Then 7 mile Road, W. Linn Road, Robert's Road... Watch out for soft shoulders on these roads...and be ready for wind, cause there's not much out there between you and it. Then Boston Mill Rd. to Shedd, another historic farm town. I was saddened to see an old Methodist church, where services had been held continuously since 1853, with auction sign nailed to the timbers. I believe in the Resurrection.
I turned on Fayetteville Rd. So many "Fayettevilles" in the US. My mom lived in Fayetteville Arkansas. Down the road I saw black walnut trees, tall and straight, another thing that reminded me of my mom. I crossed over Muddy Creek and saw a score of salmon of spawning size. Then Peoria Rd, and White Oak, and then suddenly Highway 34. I stood there puzzled for a few minutes till I realized that there was a separate bike lane across the Highway. The Willamett Valley Trail is mostly country road with very few signs ( usually at a road change and not very big.) Anyway, you take the bike way west until you come to a right curving, arching overpass, which you follow over the river. You'll see a sign on the downhill that assures you that you're in a bike lane. There before you is Corvallis, "Heart of the Valley" in Latin.
I'd hoped to get to the Library and email my friends Phil and Audra, but alas I got to town at 730pm and the library closes at 6. I did bump into Brian, who I could see by his outfit that he was a serious biker. He pointed me to Squirrel's, a pub known for it's good food. I ordered the Squirrel Burger, which has "everything", including a fried egg! I peddled off to the West side of town to where I'd camped before, near the fairgrounds. Though a good ways off, I could hear the Gospel and Country music, I think everyone was singing. Later it was the little critters that live among the Garry Oak that kept me awake. I think I plunked down on one of their trails... probably the one between the bathroom and the refridgerator. And now a little "shut-eye". Goodnight!
Wednesday, September 14, 2016
South Sister Road to Eugene ( Armitage Co.Park).
Back again! I Head out early as the day dawns. I've seen signs here and there: "CTR", "Legacy", and "RIDE". I'm still trying to figure out if they connect to some organized rides. I'm pretty much all aloneup here, riding along in the middle of the woods.Now I'm starting to climb, I've just passed a quarry, where all the gravel trucks I've seen have been going. I'm climbing seriously, a steady steep grade. A lot of recent clear-cutting trashes my beautiful views, as I attain Ox-bow Pass. Then there's a swift descent (hang on to your handle-bars!). Then eventually after awhile I come to a junction . There is a large wooden map of the area: the Siuslaw River Rd. and Wolf Creek Rd. are carved on it. Unfortunately, my intended route Siuslaw River Rd. is closed between MPs 15 & 16. So I take Wolf Creek Road ( more direct to Eugene). Wolf Creek Rd. involves another good climb and there are more log trucks, but lucky for me I can hear them coming miles away and have time to pull off the road. A little raccoon was not so lucky. At the highway I turn left and after a few flat miles, I take Crow Road. Here Again I run into the summer road crews. I always go right up to the flagger, who explains the safest way to proceed. After Crow Rd, I took Hwy 123 to a stop-light, then left, and left again onto Ferncliff Lane Bike Trail to downtown, through the Willow Creek Natural Area and Amazon Creek. This area preserves the "wet prairie" which used to predominate this area, but now makes up less than 1 % of the terrain. This important habitat for may-flies, dragon-flies, Dobsen-flies (larvae called Hellgrammites), giant water bugs, stone-flies, beaver, nutria, red fox, etc. Amazon Creek got it's name because it used to flood all the time. From 1913 til 1996 they chopped, mowed, scraped, dug, and concreted. Now they're trying to restore things. We so often learn the hard way. Down-town I found a food truck "Chatyo" and had Thai pumpkin curry ( go for less spicy!). I went to the library at 10th and Charnelton where I found a really nice Eugene Bike Map. After inquiring at Hutch Bike Shop re the best route out of town, I got back on the road. Following Coburg Road, at the Mckenzie River, I found Armitage Co. Park. They have Hiker-Biker camping for $16/night, including showers and laundry. It's a big beautiful park along-side of the McKenzie River and a good spring board for the next stretch of my journey up the Willamett Valley. Lot's of birds to see (great Blue Heron, ducks, grackles,osprey,king-fishers...), many people fishing, nice and shady under old Big-Leaf Maples with crazy massive branches. Later I listened to Kutsinhira Marimba Band playing for a company picnic. They had more of an African sound. Check them out www.kutsinhira.org. I picked up a quote somewhere: "Many go all their lives fishing, without knowing that it is not the fish they are after" (Thoreau). I'm taking that to mean, that when you're exploring you should be open to whatever shows up around that next corner. And now to sleep.
Friday, September 9, 2016
Gil's Oregon Trail- Honeyman SP to So. Sister Rd.
Hello Again! I took off early. Too early to get coffee. No coffee stands on the way, not until I got to Reedsport. I did look! There are however several campgrounds,mostly Forest Service. Met Joshua sitting on the roadside. He was the one guy who cheered for me. "Looks like you're climbing a mountain!". He even offered me a toque, but I turned him down. Saw two bikers headed north. That's a tough way to go since the prevailing winds in the summer blow south. When I got to Reedsport, I stopped at the Harbor Light for lunch ( good food and price). After lunch I back-tracked to the Smith River Rd. The river is named for Jedediah Smith. He was a trapper/explorer/wagon-train leader. Around 1822 he made it to Oregon with other explorers and trappers. Around this place there was trouble with Indians, yet somehow, with help, he managed to escape. He learned a lot through his travels and difficulties and ended up working as a leader/guide for many Oregon-bound wagon trains until he died at the hand of the Comanches on an exploratory mission in 1832. My troubles however, beyond mosquitoes and rocks and sticks under my bed and a few steep hills, have been small. Thinking on Jedediah reminds me that adventures even misadventures are learning experiences that open up vast new horizons. As I pedaled, I noted an old RR running from Gardiner to Coos Bay, The Smith River Road rises very very gradually as you pedal eastward. Interestingly every 1/2 mile, someone had painted mile numbers on the pavement ... it helped keep me going. At about 15 miles, near the North Fork, there's a store where I got ice cream and Gator Ade. The Store, the only one, was built in 1957 and is still going "out of spite" so I was told."More power to 'em", I say. It's decorated with a collection of old antiques like tin bath tubs and old saws and plows. The store owner says " this valley was settled in the 1800's and dairy farms were scattered all up and down the river. Everything moved by boat, kids climbed on boats loaded with milk cans. At 26 1/2 miles I came to Smith River Falls which is a favorite swimming hole for people around here. It didn't take much encouragement from some daredevil girls to get me to jump off a 10-15 foot rock into a deep pool. Whew...Refreshing! I ended up doing it 3 times, as I remember. No need to change, I got back on the bike and continued on. I was dry in 15 minutes. The Stream-bad reminds me ;of the Umpqua , basalt rock filled with hollows almost like Swiss Cheese. Small rocks and sand swirl around depressions like pestles in mortars . At Vincent Creek there's a campground. On my trip 2 years ago , I turned south here for Elkton via Scottsburg. There's an old guard station which has been given over to bats.Townsend's Big Eared Bats, specifically. They eat moths which are harmful to trees. Their ears are so sensitive that they can hear insect's foot-steps...They catch 'em in mid air or hover over plants and lick 'em up. They can live to be 35 years old, yet unfortunately now their numbers have declined. I left the bats and continued down the road towards Lorane. The road forks later on. To the left W Fork Smith River to Roman Nose and eventually Eugene in 68 miles, while the right continues on the Smith River Rd.and Eugene in 49 miles. Creatures seen include: 5 Turkey Vultures ( I evaded them), a frog with red-tan sides, and a garter snake. I continue on the So. Sister Rd. The light is waning as I start to climb higher, so I find an abandoned road off So. Sister to camp. Almost no traffic up here. No cell phone either. There's no breeze, so the mosquitoes have no trouble getting to me. Oh Yay!! I remembered my repellent. I also remembered my iodine tabs so water's not a problem either. I'll leave you all now and get some shut-eye. Good Night!
Wednesday, August 31, 2016
Gil's Oregon Trail-Washburne State Park to Honeyman State Park ( Florence)
More on Sea-Lion Caves...Besides the Massive Caves which provide shelter for the sea-lions, the sea floor shape causes a big up-welling of deep water to the surface, bringing up nutrients and everything that eats them from plankton to krill to herring to salmon to sea- lions and whales. Scanning the rocks I see sea-lions on rocks maybe 30 feet above the sea... How did they get there? I later learned that sea-lions have more of legs than their relatives the harbor seals, so that they can actually climb up rocky hills. I can see some young sea-lions playing some kind of water-polo... or water rugby, judging by the tight scrum. A good resource for more info would be PEARL (Portland State researchers)
I am only the latest in a long line of explorers, starting with Bruno Heceta of Spain back in 1775. The caves were discovered by Captain William Cox in 1880. The SLCs have been a private operation here since 1932. I met 3 other cyclists who'd come over from Utah. It is a popular stretch to pedal.
Arriving in Florence around lunch-time I stopped at the Little Brown Hen where I had the best fried chicken since the last time my mom cooked it for me. I ordered the " 3 Cluck" dinner. I liked a sign I saw there: "It's never too late to start your day over again." I also picked up a biker blessing/wish from one of my fellow bikers " Rubber side down!" That's the way I hope to keep things.
At Honeyman S.P. I visited the dunes. It's like a mountain just moved in next door. Have you seen pictures where the Sahara is taking over forests in West Africa? My first experience out on the dunes was like visiting another planet... unearthly! Silence... the only movement being sand blown by the wind...the bones of trees that had finally given up the ghost here and there were washed up on this edge of the universe. Walking up these shifting mountains is strenuous and strength-sapping, The sand pulls at your feet as you lift one up while your other foot sinks and slides back down the hill. A lake in the park is slowly, slowly being taken over by the beach.
The following day I went swimming in the lake and while dripping dry in the hot sun I visited a bathhouse constructed by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps). This program was enacted by FDR in 1933 in the midst of the Depression. It put to work 3 million men between 17 and 28. They were paid $1 a day and were required to send $25 a month back home to their families. They were supervised by the army, while the NPS and USFS provided planning and expertise. Each company had 200 men and went by names like Roosevelt's Tree Army, Woodpecker Warriors, Colossal College of Callouses...They built 89000 miles of telephone lines,3400 fire lookouts, Spent 6 million man-hours fighting fires, built 52000 acres of campgrounds, stocked lakes with 972 million fish, constructed 13100 miles of hiking trails, and planted 3 billion trees. The hand-carved rectangle stones you see on roadway edges are a trademark of the CCC.
Here's an interesting thing:
The 10 Commandments of the CCC
1. Obey officers.
2. Respect property.
3. Respect the rights and feelings of others.
4.Be Truthful,Trustworthy, and Honorable.
5. Be Thrifty, Faithful, and Industrious.
6.Be Clean and Healthy in body.
7.Use free time for wholesome activities of cheerful recreation.
8. Be Clean in thought word deeds and morals. No profanity.
9 Attend religious services.
10. Be loyal to company commanders and all authority - to God and Country.
You know, maybe it would be a good idea to try again.
Here I met Adam and Pippa, a couple living in Britain, now cycling all over the world: Australia, New Zealand, Canada ( from Jasper through the Okanagan, following Hwy 20 over the Cascades via Port Townsend and Hood Canal then out to the coast. They are looking to ride all the way down to San Diego. Adam is a school teacher and Pippa works in Biotech and IT.
Before leaving I did a nature trail on Lake Woahink. First built by the CCC in 1938 and now recently restored 2014. Now is the time for blackberries and evergreen huckleberries ( I didn't need to pack a snack). On the lake there's a memorial bench to Dick Welle, who visited the park yearly with his family since the 60's and was a pioneer sand-boarder. Do you know surf and snow and sidewalks aren't the only things you can "board"? More later.
I am only the latest in a long line of explorers, starting with Bruno Heceta of Spain back in 1775. The caves were discovered by Captain William Cox in 1880. The SLCs have been a private operation here since 1932. I met 3 other cyclists who'd come over from Utah. It is a popular stretch to pedal.
Arriving in Florence around lunch-time I stopped at the Little Brown Hen where I had the best fried chicken since the last time my mom cooked it for me. I ordered the " 3 Cluck" dinner. I liked a sign I saw there: "It's never too late to start your day over again." I also picked up a biker blessing/wish from one of my fellow bikers " Rubber side down!" That's the way I hope to keep things.
At Honeyman S.P. I visited the dunes. It's like a mountain just moved in next door. Have you seen pictures where the Sahara is taking over forests in West Africa? My first experience out on the dunes was like visiting another planet... unearthly! Silence... the only movement being sand blown by the wind...the bones of trees that had finally given up the ghost here and there were washed up on this edge of the universe. Walking up these shifting mountains is strenuous and strength-sapping, The sand pulls at your feet as you lift one up while your other foot sinks and slides back down the hill. A lake in the park is slowly, slowly being taken over by the beach.
The following day I went swimming in the lake and while dripping dry in the hot sun I visited a bathhouse constructed by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps). This program was enacted by FDR in 1933 in the midst of the Depression. It put to work 3 million men between 17 and 28. They were paid $1 a day and were required to send $25 a month back home to their families. They were supervised by the army, while the NPS and USFS provided planning and expertise. Each company had 200 men and went by names like Roosevelt's Tree Army, Woodpecker Warriors, Colossal College of Callouses...They built 89000 miles of telephone lines,3400 fire lookouts, Spent 6 million man-hours fighting fires, built 52000 acres of campgrounds, stocked lakes with 972 million fish, constructed 13100 miles of hiking trails, and planted 3 billion trees. The hand-carved rectangle stones you see on roadway edges are a trademark of the CCC.
Here's an interesting thing:
The 10 Commandments of the CCC
1. Obey officers.
2. Respect property.
3. Respect the rights and feelings of others.
4.Be Truthful,Trustworthy, and Honorable.
5. Be Thrifty, Faithful, and Industrious.
6.Be Clean and Healthy in body.
7.Use free time for wholesome activities of cheerful recreation.
8. Be Clean in thought word deeds and morals. No profanity.
9 Attend religious services.
10. Be loyal to company commanders and all authority - to God and Country.
You know, maybe it would be a good idea to try again.
Here I met Adam and Pippa, a couple living in Britain, now cycling all over the world: Australia, New Zealand, Canada ( from Jasper through the Okanagan, following Hwy 20 over the Cascades via Port Townsend and Hood Canal then out to the coast. They are looking to ride all the way down to San Diego. Adam is a school teacher and Pippa works in Biotech and IT.
Before leaving I did a nature trail on Lake Woahink. First built by the CCC in 1938 and now recently restored 2014. Now is the time for blackberries and evergreen huckleberries ( I didn't need to pack a snack). On the lake there's a memorial bench to Dick Welle, who visited the park yearly with his family since the 60's and was a pioneer sand-boarder. Do you know surf and snow and sidewalks aren't the only things you can "board"? More later.
Monday, August 29, 2016
Gil's Oregon Trail- So. Beach State Park to Washburne State Park.
At South Beach S.P. I learned that Newport is kept functional as a port by 2 parallel jetties on either side of the entrance to the port. these catch the sand that the sea moves back and forth by shifting wave and wind patterns. These Jetties extend out it seems a 1/2 mile or more into the ocean. Because they catch the sand. the beach on both sides is building outwards. Maybe 1/4 to 1/2 mile since the late 1800s. As a consequence of this one is able to see the stages of colonization of beach by grasses and other plants ( twinberries, tansy,beach-pea, sea pink, seashore lupine, sea rocket, Am dunegrass, Beach Strawberry. Followed by Shore Pine, Sitka Spruce).
I met a bunch of bikers doing the whole coast, from Canada to Mexico. Including a sailor, a marathoner, a Maine wilderness guide, etc. it's amazing how quick all the walls are broken down when you're all up against a bigger challenge. It helps that we don't have little metal wheeled pods to isolate ourselves in. Having only a campfire to gather round helped too. It's easier to talk in the dark,
That evening I went to a highly interesting ranger talk about beach trash. Seriously... I thought I knew it all
monster masses of floating debris swirling in the oceans, marine mammals snared or choked by plastic, our junk strewn all over the most beautiful places in the earth... but I never even thought of the stuff that's only buoyant for a little while that ends up filling the valleys of the ocean floor with garbage turning them into dumps the size of small countries, or stuff that gets buried in the sand of our beaches, or thought about how the toxics we toss end up concentrating more and more in sea predators or scavengers. He made me aware of the many volunteer groups working to do something about it. That's the next step. Check www.MarineDebris.noaa.gov
The next morning I set off on my own. I visited Beaver Creek or "Nackito". Explored by Alexander McLeod and Michel Laframboise of the Hudson's Bay Co. who traded with the Tillamook,Umpqua,Coos, and Coquille. Lots of trails and kayaking opportunities in the wetlands here. Later I came upon Seal Rocks. This is a private sea life center that you can visit for a small entrance fee. the guides are very knowledgeable and the info displays are really well done. Bring cameras and binoculars. An elevator takes you 200+ feet down to cathedral-like caverns where the sea-lions shelter during the stormy months of fall and winter. At this time they were all out under the sun on the rocks. I saw scores, fifties, hundreds of sea-lions. At the same time migrating Gray Whales were feeding very close to the cliffs. Wow! and I haven't even mentioned the Pigeon Guillemots, Cormorants, Murres, and other sea birds. I learned that the male sea-lions strike out on their own for northern waters up towards Alaska for several months, while females stay closer to home. A male usually isn't strong or tough enough to hold territory ( "a piece of the rock") until he's 9 years old. This is the prerequisite for mating.
I camped the night at Washburne State Park, close to Heceta Head Lighthouse. Since I got there early I decided to hike to the Lighthouses. The trail is magical, forest and terrain are truly strange. It is long ( 4-5 miles with a lot of up and down at the end),The scenery is striking. It is very sheltered most of the way. I must tell you that you end up climbing up to the Head and then quite a way down to the Lighthouse.
I neglected to mention as I traveled I saw fantastic rock formations around Yachats. "Wave Geysers" like Devil's Churn and Cook's Horn. In Waldport saw an excellent info center which described the evolution of transportation along the coust and the building of a network of bridges. A lot of road paving is going on all over Oregon in the summer. Bikers need to go up to where the flaggers stand and wait until all the cars go by first. They'll tell you when to go and then you need to peddle like mad, hoping that it's not an up-hill stretch. Sadly I came across a small bear that had been struck and killed... please drive carefully when you travel the Coast Highway.
No cell coverage at Washburne. Next time I come there's a trail I want to explore. it's called the Hobbit
Trail and may connect to Middle Earth. More later.
I met a bunch of bikers doing the whole coast, from Canada to Mexico. Including a sailor, a marathoner, a Maine wilderness guide, etc. it's amazing how quick all the walls are broken down when you're all up against a bigger challenge. It helps that we don't have little metal wheeled pods to isolate ourselves in. Having only a campfire to gather round helped too. It's easier to talk in the dark,
That evening I went to a highly interesting ranger talk about beach trash. Seriously... I thought I knew it all
monster masses of floating debris swirling in the oceans, marine mammals snared or choked by plastic, our junk strewn all over the most beautiful places in the earth... but I never even thought of the stuff that's only buoyant for a little while that ends up filling the valleys of the ocean floor with garbage turning them into dumps the size of small countries, or stuff that gets buried in the sand of our beaches, or thought about how the toxics we toss end up concentrating more and more in sea predators or scavengers. He made me aware of the many volunteer groups working to do something about it. That's the next step. Check www.MarineDebris.noaa.gov
The next morning I set off on my own. I visited Beaver Creek or "Nackito". Explored by Alexander McLeod and Michel Laframboise of the Hudson's Bay Co. who traded with the Tillamook,Umpqua,Coos, and Coquille. Lots of trails and kayaking opportunities in the wetlands here. Later I came upon Seal Rocks. This is a private sea life center that you can visit for a small entrance fee. the guides are very knowledgeable and the info displays are really well done. Bring cameras and binoculars. An elevator takes you 200+ feet down to cathedral-like caverns where the sea-lions shelter during the stormy months of fall and winter. At this time they were all out under the sun on the rocks. I saw scores, fifties, hundreds of sea-lions. At the same time migrating Gray Whales were feeding very close to the cliffs. Wow! and I haven't even mentioned the Pigeon Guillemots, Cormorants, Murres, and other sea birds. I learned that the male sea-lions strike out on their own for northern waters up towards Alaska for several months, while females stay closer to home. A male usually isn't strong or tough enough to hold territory ( "a piece of the rock") until he's 9 years old. This is the prerequisite for mating.
I camped the night at Washburne State Park, close to Heceta Head Lighthouse. Since I got there early I decided to hike to the Lighthouses. The trail is magical, forest and terrain are truly strange. It is long ( 4-5 miles with a lot of up and down at the end),The scenery is striking. It is very sheltered most of the way. I must tell you that you end up climbing up to the Head and then quite a way down to the Lighthouse.
I neglected to mention as I traveled I saw fantastic rock formations around Yachats. "Wave Geysers" like Devil's Churn and Cook's Horn. In Waldport saw an excellent info center which described the evolution of transportation along the coust and the building of a network of bridges. A lot of road paving is going on all over Oregon in the summer. Bikers need to go up to where the flaggers stand and wait until all the cars go by first. They'll tell you when to go and then you need to peddle like mad, hoping that it's not an up-hill stretch. Sadly I came across a small bear that had been struck and killed... please drive carefully when you travel the Coast Highway.
No cell coverage at Washburne. Next time I come there's a trail I want to explore. it's called the Hobbit
Trail and may connect to Middle Earth. More later.
Gil's Oregon Trail- Starting Out July 30th
Hello All! I've been riding a lot, mostly around Seattle, this past year. A personal goal has been to ride my bike every day. One challenge I've taken on is "the 2 mile challenge". Basically it means drawing a circle on the map with a 2 mile radius around your house. Now any destination ( Library trip, Shopping errand, Neighbor Visit, Etc.) within that circle should be do-able on a bike. Another thing that has helped me is signing up for the Cascade Bike Club's Bike Everywhere Challenge for the month of May. Then I found out about the National Bike Challenge which runs from May through September. These are good ways to appeal to your competitive side, even if you're only competing with yourself. Well, after awhile my adventurous side kept pushing my to explore new routes. It's been fun. You see a lot, when you are out in the open, and going a bit slower. For several years I've done group rides like the STP (Seattle to Portland) or the RSVP (Ride From Seattle to Vancouver and Party). Now I'm more interested in getting off on my own. Last year I put my bike on the train and rode down to Klamath Falls, Oregon and rode my bike up to Crater Lake and the Rogue River country.
This year I decided to train down to Albany, Oregon and then pedal out to the Oregon Coast, then south to Reedsport, east to Eugene, and north through the Willamet Valley back to Corvallis and Albany.
Day one I got into Albany pretty late ( after 8). Nobody could point me to a bike route to Corvallis and light was fading fast. I found highway 20 ( good paved shoulders) and by nightfall made the 20 miles to Corvallis. I pedaled to the far side of town towards Bald Hill ( lots of trails out that way), found a secluded spot under some oaks, and spread out my bed roll. I travel light : no tent, just a 36 " pad, a garbage bag for a ground sheet, my down bag, and a poncho in case it rains. I pick rain-free months.
Early in the morning I pedaled off on Hwy 20. Shoulders still well paved and wide. Couldn't find any stores open in the AM after I left Corvallis. The traffic started to get to me, though most people gave me room. I took a side road to Summit -Nashville-Eddyville. It was a good choice: no cars, scenic, and fairly flat (It followed an old railroad line). Along a few mile stretch the neighbors had turned old bikes into yard art with different color paint and decorations. I took it as an expression of encouragement to cyclists. I've got an idea now what to do with my old junk bikes. As I pedaled I saw 2 wild turkeys and a doe with 2 fawns.
Back on the the highway, things were worse: almost no shoulder and speed limits way too high (55 mph) for what was basically country road. Oregon has lots of old covered bridges it seems everywhere you go. I passed the Irish Road Bridge and Chitten Bridge. Maybe good places to hide out if a storm hit. Finally I got to Toledo, a little town close to Newport, I found a store and tanked up on sports-drink and snacks. From now on, if I see a store, I make sure I've got 2 bottles plus water ( 3 liters total). Road ( 11 miles) along Yaquina Bay to Newport was flat ( oyster country) and scenic but from noon on the wind blows strong from the ocean up river. This last stretch is used for the local marathon.
I got to the Newport wharves and got coffee and ice cream. The barristas wore great shirts " Be Positive-Love Your Life". On a dock in town I saw maybe a dozen sea-lions barking and swimming around. I went to "Mo's" for chowder. Really good!
Getting across the long bridge over Yaquina Bay was hair-raising. I mentioned the wind. I made a mistake riding on the pedestrian ( a narrow strip about a foot above the roadway. Next time I'm going to stay on the road. They do have a good idea: there's a button for cyclists to push that alerts drivers that there's a biker on the bridge - hopefully they'll use caution.
From Newport, it's a short pedal (30-45 min.) to South Beach State Park. As a hiker/biker a campsite is $5/night (you're guaranteed a spot). This park has showers with free hot-water and a hospitality center with free coffee!
More to come...
This year I decided to train down to Albany, Oregon and then pedal out to the Oregon Coast, then south to Reedsport, east to Eugene, and north through the Willamet Valley back to Corvallis and Albany.
Day one I got into Albany pretty late ( after 8). Nobody could point me to a bike route to Corvallis and light was fading fast. I found highway 20 ( good paved shoulders) and by nightfall made the 20 miles to Corvallis. I pedaled to the far side of town towards Bald Hill ( lots of trails out that way), found a secluded spot under some oaks, and spread out my bed roll. I travel light : no tent, just a 36 " pad, a garbage bag for a ground sheet, my down bag, and a poncho in case it rains. I pick rain-free months.
Early in the morning I pedaled off on Hwy 20. Shoulders still well paved and wide. Couldn't find any stores open in the AM after I left Corvallis. The traffic started to get to me, though most people gave me room. I took a side road to Summit -Nashville-Eddyville. It was a good choice: no cars, scenic, and fairly flat (It followed an old railroad line). Along a few mile stretch the neighbors had turned old bikes into yard art with different color paint and decorations. I took it as an expression of encouragement to cyclists. I've got an idea now what to do with my old junk bikes. As I pedaled I saw 2 wild turkeys and a doe with 2 fawns.
Back on the the highway, things were worse: almost no shoulder and speed limits way too high (55 mph) for what was basically country road. Oregon has lots of old covered bridges it seems everywhere you go. I passed the Irish Road Bridge and Chitten Bridge. Maybe good places to hide out if a storm hit. Finally I got to Toledo, a little town close to Newport, I found a store and tanked up on sports-drink and snacks. From now on, if I see a store, I make sure I've got 2 bottles plus water ( 3 liters total). Road ( 11 miles) along Yaquina Bay to Newport was flat ( oyster country) and scenic but from noon on the wind blows strong from the ocean up river. This last stretch is used for the local marathon.
I got to the Newport wharves and got coffee and ice cream. The barristas wore great shirts " Be Positive-Love Your Life". On a dock in town I saw maybe a dozen sea-lions barking and swimming around. I went to "Mo's" for chowder. Really good!
Getting across the long bridge over Yaquina Bay was hair-raising. I mentioned the wind. I made a mistake riding on the pedestrian ( a narrow strip about a foot above the roadway. Next time I'm going to stay on the road. They do have a good idea: there's a button for cyclists to push that alerts drivers that there's a biker on the bridge - hopefully they'll use caution.
From Newport, it's a short pedal (30-45 min.) to South Beach State Park. As a hiker/biker a campsite is $5/night (you're guaranteed a spot). This park has showers with free hot-water and a hospitality center with free coffee!
More to come...
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