Friday, September 9, 2016

Gil's Oregon Trail- Honeyman SP to So. Sister Rd.

Hello Again! I took off early. Too early to get coffee. No coffee stands on the way, not until I got to Reedsport. I did look! There are however several campgrounds,mostly Forest Service. Met Joshua sitting on the roadside. He was the one guy who cheered for me. "Looks like you're climbing a mountain!". He even offered me a toque, but I turned him down. Saw two bikers headed north. That's a tough way to go since the prevailing winds in the summer blow south. When I got to Reedsport, I stopped at the Harbor Light for lunch ( good food and price). After lunch I back-tracked to the Smith River Rd. The river is named for Jedediah Smith. He was a trapper/explorer/wagon-train leader. Around 1822 he made it to Oregon with other explorers and trappers. Around this place there was trouble with Indians, yet somehow, with help, he managed to escape. He learned a lot through his travels and difficulties and ended up working as a leader/guide for many Oregon-bound wagon trains until he died at the hand of the Comanches on an exploratory mission in 1832. My troubles however, beyond mosquitoes and rocks and  sticks under my bed and a few steep hills, have been small. Thinking on Jedediah reminds me that adventures even misadventures are learning experiences that open up vast new horizons. As I pedaled, I noted an old RR running from Gardiner to Coos Bay, The Smith River Road rises very very gradually as you pedal eastward. Interestingly every 1/2 mile, someone had painted mile numbers on the pavement ... it helped keep me going. At about 15 miles, near the North Fork, there's a store where I got ice cream and Gator Ade. The Store, the only one, was built in 1957 and is still going "out of spite" so I was told."More power to 'em", I say. It's decorated with a collection of old antiques like tin bath tubs and old saws and plows. The store owner says " this valley was settled in the 1800's and dairy farms were scattered all up and down the river. Everything moved by boat, kids climbed on boats loaded with milk cans.  At 26 1/2 miles I came to Smith River Falls which is a favorite swimming hole for people around here. It didn't take much encouragement from some daredevil girls to get me to jump off a 10-15 foot rock  into a deep pool. Whew...Refreshing! I ended up doing it 3 times, as I remember. No need to change, I got back on the bike and continued on. I was dry in 15 minutes. The Stream-bad reminds me ;of the Umpqua , basalt rock filled with hollows almost like Swiss Cheese. Small rocks and sand swirl around depressions like pestles in mortars . At Vincent Creek there's a campground. On my  trip 2 years ago , I turned south here for Elkton via Scottsburg. There's an old guard station which has been given over to bats.Townsend's Big Eared Bats, specifically. They eat moths which are harmful to trees. Their ears are so sensitive that they can hear insect's foot-steps...They catch 'em in mid air or hover over plants and lick 'em up. They can live to be 35 years old, yet unfortunately now their numbers have declined. I left the bats and continued down the road towards Lorane. The road forks later on. To the left W Fork Smith River to Roman Nose and eventually Eugene in 68 miles, while the right continues on the Smith River Rd.and Eugene in 49 miles. Creatures seen include: 5 Turkey Vultures ( I evaded them), a frog with red-tan sides, and a garter snake. I continue on the So. Sister Rd. The light is waning as I start to climb higher, so I find an abandoned road off So. Sister to camp. Almost no traffic up here. No cell phone either. There's no breeze, so the mosquitoes have no trouble getting to me. Oh Yay!! I remembered my repellent. I also remembered my iodine tabs so water's not a problem either. I'll leave you all now and get some shut-eye. Good Night!





Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Gil's Oregon Trail-Washburne State Park to Honeyman State Park ( Florence)

More on Sea-Lion Caves...Besides the Massive Caves which provide shelter for the sea-lions, the sea floor shape causes a big up-welling of deep water to the surface, bringing up nutrients and everything that eats them from plankton to krill to herring to salmon to sea- lions and whales. Scanning the rocks I see sea-lions on rocks maybe 30 feet above the sea... How did they get there? I later learned that sea-lions have more of legs than their relatives the harbor seals, so that they can actually climb up rocky hills. I can see some young sea-lions playing some kind of water-polo... or water rugby, judging by the tight scrum. A good resource for more info would be PEARL (Portland State researchers)

I am only the latest in a long line of explorers, starting with Bruno Heceta of Spain back in 1775. The caves were discovered by Captain William Cox in 1880. The SLCs have been a private operation here since 1932. I met 3 other  cyclists who'd come over from Utah. It is a popular stretch to pedal.

Arriving in Florence around lunch-time I stopped at the Little Brown Hen where I had the best fried chicken since the last time my mom cooked it for me. I ordered the " 3 Cluck" dinner. I liked a sign I saw there: "It's never too late to start your day over again." I also picked up a biker blessing/wish from one of my fellow bikers " Rubber  side down!" That's the way I hope to keep things.

At Honeyman S.P. I visited the dunes. It's like a mountain just moved in next door. Have you seen pictures where the Sahara is taking over forests in West Africa? My first experience out on the dunes was like visiting another planet... unearthly! Silence... the only movement being sand blown by the wind...the bones of trees that had finally given up the ghost here and there were washed up on this edge of the universe. Walking up these shifting mountains is strenuous and strength-sapping, The sand pulls at your feet as you lift one up while your other foot sinks and slides back down the hill. A lake in the park is slowly, slowly being taken over by the beach.

The following day I went swimming in the lake and while dripping dry in the hot sun I visited a bathhouse constructed by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps). This program was enacted by FDR in 1933 in the midst of the Depression. It put to work 3 million men between 17 and 28. They were paid $1 a day and were required to send $25 a month back home to their families. They were supervised by the army, while the NPS and USFS provided planning and expertise. Each company had 200 men and went by names like Roosevelt's Tree Army, Woodpecker Warriors, Colossal College of Callouses...They built 89000 miles of telephone lines,3400 fire lookouts, Spent 6 million man-hours fighting fires, built 52000 acres of campgrounds, stocked lakes with 972 million fish, constructed 13100 miles of hiking trails, and planted 3 billion trees. The hand-carved rectangle stones you see on roadway edges are a trademark of the CCC.

Here's an interesting thing:

The 10 Commandments of the CCC

1. Obey officers.
2. Respect property.
3. Respect the rights and feelings of others.
4.Be Truthful,Trustworthy, and Honorable.
5. Be Thrifty, Faithful, and Industrious.
6.Be Clean and Healthy in body.
7.Use free time for wholesome activities of cheerful recreation.
8. Be Clean in thought word  deeds and morals. No profanity.
9 Attend religious services.
10. Be loyal to company commanders and all authority - to God and Country.

You know, maybe it would be a good idea to try again.

Here I met Adam and Pippa, a couple living in Britain, now cycling all over the world: Australia, New Zealand, Canada ( from Jasper through the Okanagan, following Hwy 20 over the Cascades via Port Townsend and Hood Canal then out to the coast. They are looking to ride all the way down to San Diego. Adam is a school teacher and Pippa works in Biotech and IT.

Before leaving I did a nature trail on Lake Woahink. First built by the CCC in 1938 and now recently restored 2014. Now is the time for blackberries and evergreen huckleberries ( I didn't need to pack a snack). On the lake there's a memorial bench to Dick Welle, who visited the park yearly with his family since the 60's and was a pioneer sand-boarder. Do you know surf and snow and sidewalks aren't the only things you can "board"? More later.

Monday, August 29, 2016

Gil's Oregon Trail- So. Beach State Park to Washburne State Park.

At South Beach S.P. I learned that Newport is kept functional as a port by 2 parallel jetties on either side of the entrance to the port. these catch the sand that the sea moves back and forth by shifting wave and wind patterns. These Jetties extend out it seems a 1/2 mile or more into the ocean. Because they catch the sand. the beach on both sides is building outwards. Maybe 1/4 to 1/2 mile since the late 1800s. As a consequence of this one is able to see the stages of colonization of beach by grasses and other plants ( twinberries, tansy,beach-pea, sea pink, seashore lupine, sea rocket, Am dunegrass, Beach Strawberry. Followed by Shore Pine, Sitka Spruce).

I met a bunch of bikers doing the whole coast, from Canada to Mexico. Including a sailor, a marathoner, a Maine wilderness guide, etc. it's amazing how quick all the walls are broken down when you're all up against a bigger challenge. It helps that we don't have little metal wheeled pods to isolate ourselves in. Having only a campfire to gather round helped too. It's easier to talk in the dark,

That evening I went to a highly interesting ranger talk about beach trash. Seriously... I thought I knew it all
monster masses of floating debris swirling in the oceans, marine mammals snared or choked by plastic, our junk strewn all over the most beautiful places in the earth... but I never even thought of the stuff that's only buoyant for a little while that ends up filling the valleys of the ocean floor with garbage turning them into dumps the size of small countries, or stuff that gets buried in the sand of our beaches, or thought about how the toxics we toss end up concentrating more and more in sea predators or scavengers. He made me aware of the many volunteer groups working to do something about it. That's the next step. Check www.MarineDebris.noaa.gov

The next morning I set off on my own. I visited Beaver Creek or "Nackito". Explored by Alexander McLeod and Michel Laframboise of the Hudson's Bay Co. who traded with the Tillamook,Umpqua,Coos, and Coquille.  Lots of trails and kayaking opportunities in the wetlands here. Later I came upon Seal Rocks. This is a private sea life center that you can visit for a small entrance fee. the guides are very knowledgeable and the info displays are really well done. Bring cameras and binoculars. An elevator takes you 200+ feet down to cathedral-like caverns where the sea-lions shelter during the stormy months of fall and winter. At this time they were all out under the sun on the rocks. I saw scores, fifties, hundreds of sea-lions. At the same time migrating Gray Whales were feeding very close to the cliffs. Wow! and I haven't even mentioned the Pigeon Guillemots, Cormorants, Murres, and other sea birds. I learned that the male sea-lions strike out on their own for northern waters up towards Alaska for several months, while females stay closer to home. A male usually isn't strong or tough enough to hold territory ( "a piece of the rock") until he's 9 years old. This is the prerequisite for mating.

I camped the night at Washburne State Park, close to Heceta Head Lighthouse. Since I got there early I decided to hike to the Lighthouses. The trail is magical, forest and terrain are truly strange. It is long ( 4-5 miles with a lot of up and down at the end),The scenery is striking. It is very sheltered most of the way. I must tell you that you end up climbing up to the Head and then quite a way down to the Lighthouse.

I neglected to mention as I traveled I saw fantastic rock formations around Yachats. "Wave Geysers" like Devil's Churn and Cook's Horn. In Waldport saw an excellent info center which described the evolution of transportation along the coust and  the building of a network of bridges. A lot of road paving is going on all over Oregon in the summer. Bikers need to go up to where the flaggers stand and wait until all the cars go by first. They'll tell you when to go and then you need to peddle like mad, hoping that it's not an up-hill stretch. Sadly I came across a small bear that had been struck and killed... please drive carefully when you travel the Coast Highway.

No cell coverage at Washburne. Next time I come there's a trail I want to explore. it's called the Hobbit
Trail and may connect to Middle Earth. More later.




Gil's Oregon Trail- Starting Out July 30th

Hello All! I've been riding a lot, mostly around Seattle, this past year. A personal goal has been to ride my bike every day. One challenge I've taken on is "the 2 mile challenge". Basically it means drawing a circle on the map with a 2 mile radius around your house. Now any destination ( Library trip, Shopping errand, Neighbor Visit, Etc.) within that circle should be do-able on a bike. Another thing that has helped me is signing up for the Cascade Bike Club's Bike Everywhere Challenge for the month of May. Then I found out about the National Bike Challenge which runs from May through September. These are good ways to appeal to your competitive side, even if you're only competing with yourself. Well, after awhile my adventurous side kept pushing my to explore new routes. It's been fun. You see a lot, when you are out in the open, and going a bit slower. For several years I've done group rides like the STP (Seattle to Portland) or the RSVP (Ride From Seattle to Vancouver and Party). Now I'm more interested in getting off on my own. Last year I put my bike on the train and rode down to Klamath Falls, Oregon and rode my bike up to Crater Lake and the Rogue River country. 

This year I decided to train down to Albany, Oregon and then pedal out to the Oregon Coast, then south to Reedsport, east to Eugene, and north through the Willamet Valley back to Corvallis and Albany.

Day one I got into Albany pretty late ( after 8). Nobody could point me to a bike route to Corvallis and light was fading fast. I found  highway 20 ( good paved shoulders) and by nightfall made the 20 miles to Corvallis. I pedaled to the far side of town towards Bald Hill ( lots of trails out that way), found a secluded spot under some oaks, and spread out my bed roll. I travel light : no tent, just a 36 " pad, a garbage bag for a ground sheet, my down bag, and a poncho in case it rains. I pick rain-free months.

Early in the morning I pedaled off on Hwy 20. Shoulders still well paved and wide. Couldn't find any stores open in the AM after I left Corvallis. The traffic started to get to me, though most people gave me room. I took a side road to Summit -Nashville-Eddyville. It was a good choice: no cars, scenic, and fairly flat (It followed an old railroad line). Along a few mile stretch the neighbors had turned old bikes into yard art with different color paint and decorations. I took it as an expression of encouragement to cyclists. I've got an idea now what to do with my old junk bikes. As I pedaled I saw 2 wild turkeys and a doe with 2 fawns.

Back on the the highway, things were worse: almost no shoulder and speed limits way too high (55 mph) for what was basically country road. Oregon has lots of old covered bridges it seems everywhere you go. I passed the Irish Road Bridge and Chitten Bridge. Maybe good places to hide out if a storm hit. Finally I got to Toledo, a little town close to Newport, I found a store and tanked up on sports-drink and snacks. From now on, if I see a store, I make sure I've got 2 bottles plus water ( 3 liters total). Road ( 11 miles) along Yaquina Bay to Newport was flat ( oyster country) and scenic but from noon on the wind blows strong from the ocean up river. This last stretch is used for the local marathon.

I got to the Newport wharves and got coffee and ice cream. The barristas wore great shirts " Be Positive-Love Your Life". On a dock in town I saw maybe a dozen sea-lions barking and swimming around. I went to "Mo's" for chowder. Really good! 

Getting across the long bridge over Yaquina Bay was hair-raising. I mentioned the wind. I made a mistake riding on the pedestrian ( a narrow strip about a foot above the roadway. Next time I'm going to stay on the road. They do have a good idea: there's a button for cyclists to push that alerts drivers that there's a biker on the bridge - hopefully they'll use caution.

From Newport, it's a short pedal (30-45 min.) to South Beach State Park. As a hiker/biker a campsite is $5/night (you're guaranteed a spot). This park has showers with free hot-water and a hospitality center with free coffee!

More to come...

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Back to Tegucigalpa 2015

Hola Amigos!

It's been so long since I've been back here and for Jane, even longer. The airport looks nicer. Nicer buses going to Flor del Campo ( not the old schoolbuses I remember). Astroturf on the soccer field... Still the taxistas at the airport are leery about driving to Flor. I learned later that there'd been some violent attacks on drivers in the neighborhood.

We found a driver who was very helpful... we had the approximate address for the mom of one of our old friends and he asked around, backing up and manoeuvering around some rutted and narrow streets.

Saturday, October 12, 2013

San San Pond Sak

Saturday we went to our new friend Roberto´s church. He´s the president to the boatman´s assn on Bastimentos and an Elder in the church. The sermon was given by a youth group leader. it was a good word. about God´s People right after their first big victory. beating Jericho. The next challenge was the little town of Ai. Thinking they were pretty big stuff and forgetting their recent win was totally God, they said to themselves "we can beat them with one hand tied behind our back". " it's a little town, we'll just send 3000 soldiers". Well Ai kicked their butts. We fall into the same kind of thinking. We forget that living victoriously means keeping up our spiritual discipline( forgiving/confessing, praying, meditating ,etc), remembering that we are totally dependent on God, and following God's orders as best as we can.

In this little town ( no roads just one sidewalk that runs along the waterfront and another that runs up the hill) the evening hang out is a little park above the public dock. We sat with everyone else looking out to sea which was lit now and again by distant lightning. pretty quiet ... that is until the kids got 2 dogs worked up and a dogfight got going.

Sunday 10/6 up early. Goodbye to our "tree-house". As we approach the dock, Roberto's son pops his head out his window. "Heading out?" quickly we are led out to the boat and climb aboard. It's a 10 minute trip to Bocas town. from there we arrange a water taxi to the mainland. We are headed for the nature preserve of San San Pond Sak, which is managed by the environmental group Assn of AMigos y VEcinos de la COsta y la NAturleza or AAMVECONA. we negociate  passage on a couple of diffierent buses through Chiquita's vast banana plantations.

When we arrive at the visitor center all is quiet. I'm hoping I was clear in my telephone communications, especially since it was all in Spanish. Soon a big canoe with an outboard pulls up at the dock. It's our guide, Erick.




Tuesday, October 8, 2013

in Bocas del Toro

Hola Amigos!

Jane and I flew up to Bocas del Toro, an island group on the Carribean close to Costa Rica. Weather is great , mostly sunny and a welcome relief from Panama City which was pretty sloppy while we were there. Yesterday after flying in we were able to catch a bus to the far end of the island which interestingly is called Boca del Drago (Dragon´s Maw). It was anything but .... Calm water, just like a big swimming pool. When I have goggles on I think I can swim better, maybe it´s because when I can see where I´m going, I don´t tend to swim in circles.

Today ( 10- 3) I decided to rent a bike to get to wild beach that has no bus. I thought I was doing good when I got them to pump up the tires and raise the seat. Well ....30 minutes in the tire popped. you know a tire patch kit and a pump are a good idea to have along even if it´s not your bike. I was close enough to the beach ( 2 to 3 miles) that I decided to lock up the bike and walk the rest otf the way. Beautiful beach all along the way. When I got to my destination , it was as empty as the Washington coast on a rainy day in October, but it was sunny there was lots of powdery yellow sand , and the water was perfect. We need some coconut palms up our way. On my way back I got to my bike just as a pick up truck taxi was loading up 2 other guys and their bikes. they let me share and turned out to be a couple of Spaniards, Frank and his cousin. You know a flat tire doesn´t have to be a disaster...

When I got back Jane and I bumped into a couple in a cafe, Seth and Janelle Lambert from the Battleground WA area who are down here working with a friend Bobby Woods who is starting a work to assist indigenous people Ngobe-Bugle living on Isla Bastimentos to improve their farming so they can better support themselves. we had a good talk about their work and what we are doing in Honduras with our friends at Agros and Nuevo Amanecer. God´s people are all over doing good.Bobby´s blog is on www.woodupdate.com and his new website is aguadulce.org.

10-4 We left early on a boat to Isla Bastimentos. We arrived in Old Bank a small Afro-Caribbean enclave and went to a small guest house in a jungle garden setting. Beverly´s Hill.Like being in a treehouse we could sit on the porch and wait for the birds to com to us.Not just birds but tiny red frogs speckled with black spots which are famous around here.In some ways it was almost like home, we had chickens clucking and scratching about too.

Later Jane and I took off walking on a trail up the hill through the Jungle on our way to Wizard Beach. at the top of the Hill was the aptly named Up the Hill Shop, a colorful outdoorsy hangout where one could sit and read (there was a bookcase full of novels and nature books) and drink coffee or juice and eat brownies. I had a Mocha made with Coconut milk. Great! The brownies also made with coconut oil. Delicious! They grow their own Cocoa, Coconuts,Passion-fruit,etc..So fortified we slipped and slid our way down the hill to Wizard Beach. A Fantastic place! I really am going to have to learn how to surf...

More later amigos. Gilberto.